From January 18 to January 22, the 26th Geneva International Haute Horlogerie Awards kicked off at the Palexpo Exhibition Center. In 2016, the Geneva International Haute Horlogerie has undergone some changes compared with the previous period. This time, 9 independent watch brands participated in the Horological Salon, bringing different blood and vitality to the Horological Salon. Concerning the watch salon, watch expert Mr. Conway Kai accepted an interview with the Watch House to talk about his personal views on the exhibition and watchmaking brands.
Watch House: Compared with previous years, this watch exhibition has a lot less people. What do you think?
Conway: Because the watch exhibition is a closed-door exhibition, there will be some necessary consumption after entering, such as dining; if the four doors of the exhibition are opened, I believe it will become a crowded situation. Lifeng Group, the organizing committee of the exhibition, strictly limits the number of participants, which is also to effectively control costs. At the same time, it can be seen that the current state of the industry is facing deep adjustment.
Watch House: Do you think this year has been the worst year for you in the watch industry?
Conway: Yes, because 2016 has just begun. The past 2015 has been the worst year in the past seven or eight years. Why do you say that? Because before that, China’s luxury watch market was not so large, and everyone’s concerns were different. It would still be a modest stage of learning from the outside world, probably from the second half of 2008 to 2009. The watch market has just become the most shining emerging watch market in the world. By 2015, it was returned to the prototype, and everyone experienced the worst year.
Home of Watches: Compared with previous years, how do you think this watch exhibition is different?
Conway Kai: You can feel that the 24 brands participating in this exhibition are not the first time to participate (nine independent brands are participating for the first time). The products produced this year are different from the previous ones. They were listed in 2016. Deep imprint. So I believe that in a few years, the Geneva watch fair in 2016 will be counted many times, because it is the Geneva watch fair that is full of innovation and succession.
Watch House: As a watch and media expert, what new plans do you have this year?
Conway: I have always been thinking on the road, including some changes in watches and forms of communication, because now social media is very developed, and I focus on being a self-media, and find that the value of my existence is more with consumers Interact with watch fans. In the past, the watch and clock media was similar to sowing in agricultural cultivation, that is, when the seeds were sprinkled into a field, it would take root and sprout. Of course, there is also a problem of proportionality. The strong wind blows away the seeds, and the seeds cannot turn into plants. The current social media emphasizes interaction and one-on-one communication with effective groups, which is similar to sowing, digging a pit, putting the seeds of time in, and then filling the soil with water, so that the survival rate of the plant will be High and work more effectively. So now, especially in 2016, judging from the Geneva watch fair, the way the media has changed from sowing to sowing has changed a lot. And the real potential consumer groups, they expressed a very strong curiosity and purchase desire, because at the exhibition, there are both mass-produced styles and precious styles with investment and collection value, and they understand the information of precious styles It may be fleeting. You did not grasp this information. You may not be able to place an order for a few hours after the watch is on sale, because limited editions have been snapped up. This situation has appeared a lot at the watch exhibition. Times.
‘Roland Garros in the City’ stands in the orange hall of Taikoo Li Sanlitun in Beijing to open the clay tennis experience, aiming to provide more opportunities for participants to participate in tennis. As the official partner of Roland Garros French Open, Swiss watchmaker Longines (Longines) invited media friends to experience the sport and fun of tennis on June 3, 2015.
Clay tennis court
Longines appears at the top of the screen.
Orange hall entrance
Entering the entrance area, you can see the carefully arranged venue and the clay court experience center in the center, which will provide visitors with a unique Roland Garros clay court experience opportunity, which makes people truly feel the happiness and passion that the French Open can create. Friends who are not good can also try one or two under the guidance of professionals.
Delicious pastries and drinks
At the scene, delicious pastries and drinks were prepared for everyone. Friends who watched the screen and enjoyed the game can also entertain and relax here.
Roland Garros in the city
Participants started the game
Participants are interested in practicing
Fun tennis challenge games such as ‘Challenge 40 Seconds’, ‘Ball Break’, ‘Battering into the Hole’ are carefully prepared for the participants here. As long as the task is completed within the prescribed time, it is possible to get ‘Roland Garros’ Gifts for events in the city. These activities allow tennis enthusiasts to experience the charm of tennis by training, swinging and hitting on the clay court.
Longines official timing
During this event, we were also very lucky to admire Longines watches. Through the glass, you can observe the details and elegant beauty of the watch up close.
Longines classic watches in the cabinet
Longines Dayau Wiener
Longines Round Dance Watch
Among them are new products from 2015 Baselworld, such as the feminine round dance series watch, unique and beautiful oval case, exquisite and elegant bracelet, various exquisite dials. The combination of the three is like a perfect chord.
Longines Jialan Elegant Women’s Watch
Longines and sports have always been inextricably bound. Tennis and watches are pursuing exquisiteness, excellence and precision. In continuous innovation and improvement, Longines is constantly showing new masterpieces, bringing more surprises to the world.
Longines Compaq Moon Phase Watch
Draw from ten shortlisted participants
This time, my friends challenged the speed of the ball. Under the guidance of the staff, everyone was very interested and came to play. Finally, among the top five boys and the top five girls, a lucky participant was selected. A beautiful watch from Longines.
Summary: The French Open has always attracted the attention of sports enthusiasts. The charm of sports always brings extraordinary experience and gains. From the opening day of June 2 to the final night of June 7, 10 am to 10 pm every day. At the same time, the French Tennis Association will join hands with the event partners Longines, Crocodile, and Paris Water through a series of themed activities to allow participants to appreciate the charm of the French Open. It also allows more Chinese tennis fans to understand and love this clay court. (Picture / text watch home Li Shuai)...
With the confidence and charm of men in the 1960s, he combined the design concepts of the past years with time and space and modern craftsmanship. Simplicity is never new. However, simplicity is attractive because it is never outdated. From Bauhaus in the 1930s to modern minimalism, classic aesthetics seem to tell us constantly: simplicity is never simple.
Men’s: automatic movement; 11 1/2 2824-2; 25 stones; ordinary three-pin function, calendar; 18K rose gold case with gold watch; case 35.20 mm; brown alligator leather strap with ordinary leather watch Buckle; 23.44 grams of 18K rose gold; lug width 18/16 mm; silver dial with 3 Roman numerals, 8 diamonds = 0.06 card; sapphire crystal / mineral back cover glass; 30 meters waterproof.
18In 1860, Jacques Didisheim officially founded a watch brand named Emperor King in the small town of St. Imier near his hometown, and since then has created a silk road for the history of Emperor Brand. The watch brand JUVENIA, which has a prominent position among the royal aristocracy, and the Swiss watch industry has always enjoyed the reputation of perfection and extraordinary craftsmanship, has been continuously pursuing breakthroughs in the history of nearly 150 years, such as the first development and application in 1880 The roller gear operation and the world’s finest single-layer mechanical movement were exhibited at the Swiss International Exhibition in 1914, which is still an immortal masterpiece.
In the past 150 years of watchmaking history, in addition to studying rare materials and continuously inspiring inspiration from nature, what is most memorable for JUVENIA is the weight that touched the hearts of collectors. It comes from the charm, tradition and historical colors accumulated by the Emperor. Zunhuang Watch has never ceased to create clocks. When all Swiss watch factories faced the impact of quartz watches, many famous watch factories were suspended. At this time, Zunhuang Watch relied on many years of market management and aesthetic art experience. In the 1980s, he continued to create a new ultra-thin Ultra-Thin art model Number One, which was well received by the market. Zunhuang Watch incorporates the decorative arts of the past years into today’s works. It has inherited more than 100 years of enthusiasm and culture for watchmaking, and set a new milestone for today’s JUVENIA Zhuanghuang Watch.
This year, Zenith Manufacture continues to pay tribute to the great navigator Christopher Columbus, using the most exquisite master craftsmanship such as enamel, engraving and micro-painting, to embody the heritage of precision marine navigation Prestige Columbus Hurricane Big Nautical Watch. This extraordinary work is limited to ten pieces. It is entirely handmade and is equipped with three major achievements of watchmaking technology: patented gravity control system, sesame refining transmission mechanism and unique high frequency of 36,000 times per hour.
Avant-garde spirit, bravely meet challenges, eager to explore: the famous navigator Christopher Columbus and watchmaker Georges Favor Jecot have the same passion, continue to explore new areas, the former sails, and the westward journey opens up to India. The road by sea, which in 1865 founded Zenith, the first industrial watchmaking factory. A century and a half later, this star-branded brand still adheres to the tradition of pursuing precise timekeeping and continuous innovation, and has more than 300 patents. In 1969, the brand introduced the legendary El Primero automatic movement, which is still the most accurate series production timing movement in the world today. Zenith adheres to the tradition of creating exquisite timepieces (especially worth mentioning, the watch factory has launched countless enamel pocket watches). It has never stopped on the road to pursue the beauty of machinery, condensing the efforts and wisdom of countless skilled craftsmen. The Zenith Prestige Columbus Hurricane Limited Edition was born. This extraordinary timepiece is a challenge for the master of craftsmanship and watchmaking. It is equipped with three breakthrough achievements in the field of watchmaking-patented gravity control system, sesame refining transmission mechanism and unique 36,000 times. / Hour high vibration frequency-based on the integration of gorgeous and stunning enamel painting process and ingenious engraving design, finally this delicately crafted movement is packed into a rose gold case with a diameter of only 45 mm, while ensuring that Does not affect its accuracy and stability. This work is undoubtedly the best manifestation of Zenith’s bold creativity that combines the extraordinary decoration from traditional master craftsmanship with fantasy machinery, making watch collectors and connoisseurs alike.
Positive, technology dominates
Zenith uses the dial side of this watch as a stage to showcase the achievements of watchmaking. With its open design, three new mechanical devices can be seen at a glance: a barrel with a sesame mill drive system (located at 10:30 and Between 1:30), gyroscope gravity control system and high-vibration frequency adjustment mechanism (located at 6 o’clock). This highly three-dimensional and technological sense complements the exquisite master craftsmanship inherited from Zenith to this day. Three small gold dials (hour / minute at 12 o’clock, small seconds at 9 o’clock, power reserve indicator at 4 o’clock), beautifully engraved, then decorated with white enamel, blue steel hands and screws Adding to each other’s interest, following the great tradition of watchmaking. The splint is completely carved by hand, and only the embossed Zenith and the stars are retained; then the intaglio part is filled with night blue paint. The balance block of the gravity control system also uses the poetic exquisite decoration, and reproduces the starry sky map of the southern hemisphere by using pure hand micro-drawing technology.
On the back, invite you on an adventure
的 The back of the Prestige Columbus Hurricane Grand Sailing Watch represents the adventures of the famous navigator Columbus with gorgeous colors and vivid reliefs, creating perfect details between square inches, which is breathtaking. Skilled artisans who are proficient in master craftsmanship use a delicate and complex gold panel fixed to the movement to complete a veritable micro-painting. The mechanical components on the first layer of foreground patterns outline marine instruments and hand-engraved Columbus portraits, as well as the astronomical instrument sextant used to calculate latitude. On the second layer of foreground graphics is Columbus’s flagship Santa María when he sailed for the first time in 1492. The hand-decorated micro-engraving pattern is subtle and subtle, even the sail rigging and ropes are clearly legible. The sails decorated with filigree enamel bear the famous Red Cross pattern, and one of them is cleverly decorated with Zenith stars, making collectors who know the history of the brand smile. The gear bridge behind the hull is used to represent the ocean. It is engraved with a small wave pattern and coated with a translucent lacquer. The clockwork box bridge in the background is more profound, and the sky changes day and night with a micro-painting. It is worth mentioning that the watchmaking masters of the watchmaking factory ingeniously use the movement structure to reflect the sunrise and sunset with a carefully decorated pinion, which is clever. And this exquisite decoration requires craftsmen to select fixing points for the applique components on the movement and minimize the thickness of the movement and the space between the movement and the decoration (the space between the sails is less than one tenth of a millimeter) . The exquisite decoration on the prestigious Columbus Hurricane Grand Nautical Watch is completely completed by skilled craftsmen with both hands, making each watch unique and worthy of collection. Prestige Columbus Hurricane Watch (back)
The ultimate pursuit of precision ‘core’
If Columbus is brave enough to push the boundaries of space, this watch with the same name uses three mechanical mechanisms to ensure precise timing to break through the limitations of time measurement: a high-frequency tuning device (36,000 vibrations / hour) can measure Accurate to one-tenth of a second; Sesame Refined transmission system can maintain stable power output during power storage, while gravity control system can offset the adverse effect of gravity on the watch’s travel time. In other words, this watch fundamentally solves the problems of wearing and running time, ensuring precise timing. This extraordinary movement consists of a total of 939 components, of which 354 are part of the movement, 173 are gravity control module components, and 585 are sesame mill components.
Sesame Power Transmission System Ensures Balanced Power
When the power of a mechanical watch weakens, the vibration swing of its movement will become smaller, which will affect the accuracy of the watch’s travel time. On the contrary, with the power transmission system of sesame seeds, the power of the watch will remain stable during the power reserve period, because the device can offset the effect of the gradual reduction of the power of the barrel.
Most of the sixteenth, seventeenth, and eighteenth century pocket watches were equipped with sesame seeds to regulate the power transmitted to the gear set. However, watchmaking factories that can fit this device into a square inch of space with a diameter of only 45 mm are rare. Zenith, after two years of research and development, has finally succeeded in producing a sesame refinery transmission system suitable for the prestigious Columbus Hurricane Grand Sailing Watch, and has entered the ranks of a handful of high-end watchmakers.
Between the winder barrel and the pagoda wheel, a 585-piece sesame mill with a length of 18 cm ensures transmission. The sesame refining structure is extremely precise and complex, consisting of a double refining section and an intermediate refining section. The sliver bars installed in the watch can withstand more than 3 kg of pulling force.
During the entire power reserve process, the power spring transmits energy to the pagoda wheel through the smelting bar curled around the barrel. The Pagoda Wheel obtains balanced power by correcting the tension error and distributes it to the gear set and the silicon escape wheel located in the gyroscope frame. The barrel is smelted by a very attractive method of smelting, and it takes 50 hours (the process of power reserve release) for the smelt to gradually wind up around the barrel. Subsequently, the pagoda wheel and the barrel were turned counterclockwise within a few seconds so that the smelt could be wound tightly around the pagoda wheel again. The shape of the pagoda wheel is carefully designed by Zenith watchmakers to maximize power transmission to the barrel. The grooved pagoda wheel is like an animal horn, and the groove size is skillfully calculated in the seven steps of the production process. It would not have been possible for the Sesame Refined Transmission System to come to fruition without the cooperation of all process departments of Zenith Watchmaking (especially the movement sample department) and the use of precision equipment. This is also one of the advantages of the integrated watch factory.
Gravity Control: Challenge the Law of Gravity
The prestigious Columbus Hurricane Grand Nautical Watch offsets the isochronous (equivalent to the swing time) error with the sesame refining transmission system, and also eliminates another adverse effect that affects the movement of mechanical watches: the effect of gravity.
Keeping the adjustment device in the horizontal position can make the oscillating weight have the best possible swing amplitude, thus bringing the best travel time accuracy. Based on this principle, Zenith designed a new and revolutionary patented module, the gravity control system, to keep the adjustment device and escapement system in the horizontal position for the best performance.
This avant-garde design gravity control system is not only a manifestation of the boldness of the watch factory, but also draws inspiration from the maritime precision timepieces made by the watch factory in the past and pays tribute to the glorious history of the watch factory. This mechanism draws inspiration from the nautical compass that came out in the sixteenth century and borrows its suspension design to maintain the horizontal position no matter how bumpy the ship is. The gravity control system is equipped with a gyroscope automatic adjustment mechanism. No matter how the wearer’s wrist moves, the adjustment mechanism always maintains the horizontal position, which is similar to the sailing timepiece. Zenith is currently the only watch factory to master this design, and won the first prize in the complication watch category of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève in 2011. This design took five years. To develop results.
Unique watch box
超 An extraordinary work, with a unique watch box. The Prestige Columbus Hurricane Watch is equipped with a precious mahogany box decorated with cow bone inlays. It can also be used to collect 80 cigars. Decorated with a parchment-style papyrus silk screen motif, it reproduces the first map of Waldzemuller (1507) with the name ‘America’ (America), a tribute to Columbus.
Zhen Lishi condenses the glorious history of the Great Nautical Age between the delicate and delicate squares, combines bold creativity with original spirit and fun and childlike innocence, conquering a new field with this limited series that combines high-end watchmaking and master craftsmanship.